This method will help establish a uniform stand of turf. Use fungicide-treated seed to reduce the chances of disease. If overseeding an established lawn, brush the turf with a stiff broom to ensure that the seeds fall through the foliage and make contact with the soil. Water the lawn lightly two or three times daily until the seeds germinate. The amount of watering during establishment will be determined by the soil type and evaporative potential of the atmosphere.
During dry periods, poorly drained clay soils may not need as much irrigation as sandy soils. Do not overwater, as this will wash seed away and encourage disease development.
When the lawn is established and has been mowed several times, water only as necessary to prevent ryegrass wilt. An established winter lawn requires the same maintenance as a permanent lawn. Mow when the grass is tall enough to cut, about 1 to 2 inches. Make sure the mower blade is sharp to prevent ripping the ryegrass blades. If the ryegrass is properly fertilized, weekly mowing may be necessary. After the second mowing, apply one-half pound of nitrogen per square feet using a fertilizer, such as or this would be 3 pounds of fertilizer per square feet of lawn.
Apply another one-half pound of nitrogen during mid-winter, if needed to maintain ryegrass color and growth. Pythium blight disease can be a problem on over-watered, over-fertilized ryegrass, especially during warm, humid weather; therefore, it is important to monitor the nitrogen applications and to not over-fertilize or over-water. Ryegrass normally dies out in late spring, but if cool weather prevails, it can become persistent. To discourage the ryegrass, fertilizer applications should be made no later than mid- to late January.
If possible, allow the lawn to remain on the dry side. This will stress the ryegrass and allow the transition back to warm-season turfgrass. However, do not allow the permanent grass to suffer from lack of water at this time. In the spring, mow the ryegrass down to one inch height, which will weaken it and allow the permanent grass to rejuvenate. Be sure to not scalp the permanent lawn as this could also cause a delay in transition i. When the permanent grass resumes growth, begin regular maintenance, especially fertilization.
One last item should be mentioned about overseeding bermudagrass. Once a lawn has been overseeded, it will need to be overseeded the following years, because the ryegrass seed that did not germinate the previous year may germinate and grow into big clumps and look weedy. If lawn overseeding will be discontinued, then previously overseeded lawns will require a fall application of preemergent herbicide to prevent both winter weeds and any remaining ryegrass seeds from germinating.
We Offer Premium Customer Service. Use the form below or call us at today! Upload Your Images:. Need a quote fast? Call us at today! We also offer many other landscaping services, and offer great tips and offers on our Blog, Facebook and YouTube pages. Quick Links. Weather conditions can vary significantly within perennial ryegrass' extensive growing region, so let your lawn help guide your timing from year to year.
If you're uncertain about typical frost dates and planting times in your local area, check with your county extension agent. Then follow this perennial ryegrass lawn care calendar for a healthy, beautiful lawn.
Start mowing when your lawn starts growing. Bag the season's first clippings to avoid spreading winter fungal disease. Prevent crabgrass in your perennial ryegrass lawn while you fertilize in early spring.
Do not apply to seeded or overseeded areas within 60 days after seeding. Do not apply to newly seeded areas until you mow new grass at least three times. Wait at least three weeks after application before reseeding. Water your established perennial ryegrass lawn so it receives about 1 inch of water per week, including rainfall.
Water deeply and thoroughly to encourage deeper root growth. Increase your mowing height to 3 to 4 inches during periods of heat and low rainfall. Mow often enough that you never remove more than one-third of the blade at any one time. Early control limits damage and prevents new generations of pests. Test your lawn soil every three to four years to confirm soil pH and nutrients.
Perennial ryegrass prefers soil pH of 5. In areas with overly acidic soil, such as parts of the Pacific Northwest, your lawn may need lime to restore nutrient availability. Keep mowing your perennial ryegrass lawn until growth stops. If you plan to overseed, spot-treat stubborn lawn weeds and use Pennington UltraGreen Lawn Fertilizer instead. Early fall is the best time to plant cool-season grasses, including perennial ryegrass. Seed northern lawns with Pennington Smart Seed Perennial Ryegrass about 45 days before your area's typical first fall frost.
Overseed southern lawns for winter color once the warm-season grass starts to go dormant and turn brown and when overnight air temperatures drop near 65 to 70 Fahrenheit. In northern lawns, gradually reduce watering. Supplement rainfall, as needed, so perennial ryegrass gets 1 inch of water every 10 to 14 days.
In southern lawns, continue regular irrigation so that perennial ryegrass gets 1 inch of water per week. Aerate compacted soil as needed. Clump-forming perennial ryegrass typically does not produce significant thatch. Rake or mulch fallen leaves so perennial ryegrass enters winter free of leaf cover.
Continue to mow and water perennial ryegrass in dormant warm-season winter lawns on a regular maintenance schedule. Keep your lawn free of winter debris. As soil thaws in late winter, flush areas affected by de-icing salts or pet urine damage.
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